Sunrise in Delhi, India and the Driver who Made it Possible

On my first morning in Delhi, I came downstairs at the Imperial Hotel at 5:30 to find a taxi. I wanted to photograph the sunrise at India Gate, which had been recommended to me as a spot for a memorable sunrise photograph. The driver told me he would take me there, wait, and bring me back to the hotel when I was ready. On the way, he introduced himself: his name was Kamar.

India Gate was still dark when I arrived, so I had to navigate to a proper vantage point to capture the shot I had in mind. By the time I finished, the sun was up and an hour and a half had gone by. When I called Kamar on WhatsApp, he was there to pick me up in three minutes, as promised.

India Gate I Delhi, India

Over the next few days, Kamar became my morning companion on 5:30AM sunrise outings. He also drove my wife and I to the places we wanted to see, including a cooking class and several temples. He was kind, and his rates were very reasonable.

On my third morning, my last chance to shoot a Delhi sunrise (I had decided I would sleep when I got home), I asked Kamar where I should go. I had already tried to get into the Presidential Palace grounds, but the guards turned me away. Security was tight because of protests involving the Cockroach political party. Kamar suggested the Sikh temple. I hadn’t heard of it, but a little research told me it would work well.

That morning, I expected him to drop me off as usual. Instead, he parked the car and came into the temple with me. I was surprised at the enormity of the place. We took off our shoes, washed our feet, and went to the altar to pray. I asked Kamar if it was all right that I had said a Christian prayer, since I am Catholic and don’t know any other types of prayers. He told me it was fine, that Sikhs welcome all religions. That surprised and impressed me.

Afterward I went outside to photograph the temple at sunrise, reflected in the sacred pool. There were “no photography” signs everywhere, and as I set up my tripod, a man I took to be a temple elder, dressed all in white and holding a staff, came toward me. “No, no, no,” he said. Kamar intervened and spoke with him, explaining something I couldn’t follow, and the man relented, even though he did look at me a little funny. I took my photographs. A young man who had noticed me and was curious about what I was doing even asked my opinion on a career question, since his brother was working for Walmart in California, and I was happy to offer some advice.

Sikh Temple I Delhi, India

Then Kamar asked if I would like to see the temple kitchen. He explained that anyone who comes to the temple can eat there at no charge, and that volunteers do all the work. I was amazed by the sheer size of it: enormous machines and kettles, rows of volunteers chopping vegetables and cooking, and huge rooms stacked with large bags of food. The dining room was very large with no tables or chairs. People were sitting on the floor with silver trays of food.

The photographs came out beautifully, and I was thrilled. But beyond another great Delhi sunrise shot, I came away with an unforgettable experience at the Sikh temple, thanks to my driver, Kamar. Our Tauck trip hadn’t even started yet, and I had already gained real insight into Indian culture.